I was really surprised at the LACK of seam finishing etc in these very expensive made to measure garment .

Casual jackets which are made up of small pattern pieces are also ideal for a patchwork approach, there are even small businesses now making these commercially and every garment is different, some even manage to use 100% recycled components.I cut a UK 16 and overall I’m happy with the fit and apart from the length I made no alterations to the bodice. You’ll frequently see it used on chiffon or georgette but I’ve used it successfully here on fine cotton lawn, jersey and a stretch velour. No piece was ever cut on a fold, we always used a whole front or a whole back, sleeves, bodice pieces or skirt panels could be ‘flipped’ though to fit them in. If you have the foot attachment and stitch capability for your sewing machine you can always try blind-hemming. and there is a lot of this going on–implying artisanal, traditionally crafted, family-owned traditions.

One of the regular sewing highlights of the last 4 years for me has been the Sewing Weekender which generally takes place in Cambridge, UK in August.To me, couture means “lots and lots of thought and a careful process that respects both fabric and wearer to create a whole garment that belongs on the person like a second skin. When they were happy I would be given the pattern along with all the fabrics and instructions for the new sample. Honestly it's a word that I'm so tired of hearing – and people seem to have so many different interpretations of what it means! By doing some refashioning projects using things I already had, other than new fabric, I made a few items including pyjamas for my final Simple Sew post and another pair using the PJ pattern in the Great British Sewing Bee book written by Alex and Caroline of Selkie patterns and for which I had made a couple of samples.

Marina makes a good point by specifying that many couture techniques are done in context, such as with a particular type of fabric. It holds the weight of the skirt, which is pretty heavy, and takes some of the strain off the zip as it’s such a fitted dress. I wasn’t taught this method as such, I discovered it for myself whilst doing alterations taking up sleeves for people. that in Europe where they still have guilds to designate quality of craftsmanship “haute couture” only goes to a select few design houses, such as Dior, and only for their made to measure couture line. Whether you’re sewing or overlocking the fabric I strongly suggest you have the whole piece supported on the table in front of the machine rather than feeding up from your lap.I like Roberta Carr's definition… Without quoting her precisely, she talks about couture as a way of thinking… It's a holistic method of approaching a garment from fit to finish, encompassing consideration of the fabric and technique to create a harmonious whole. Just one outworker made this style because she became so skilled at it, every ruffle was edged using a rolled-hem foot and it was then sandwiched between diagonal skirt panels. Personally I take the literal translation of couture as 'sewing' but haute couture is attention to detail and yes, spending time (lots of time) on hand sewing and finishing techniques.